The secret that stylish women know? It's not about finding dresses that fit perfectly off the rack—it's about finding dresses with potential and having them tailored to fit you precisely. Even celebrities and models have their clothing altered; the perfect fit you see on red carpets is almost always the result of skilled tailoring.
Understanding which alterations are feasible, cost-effective, and worthwhile empowers you to shop with new eyes. That dress that's almost perfect can become genuinely perfect with the right adjustments.
The Power of Proper Fit
A well-fitted dress transforms not just your appearance but how you feel. When clothes fit properly, you stand taller, move more confidently, and present a polished image. Conversely, even expensive dresses look cheap when they fit poorly—bunching at the waist, pulling across the hips, or gaping at the neckline.
When shopping, always buy for the largest part of your body that can't be easily altered—typically the shoulders or bust. Everything else can usually be taken in, but adding significant fabric is rarely possible.
Common Dress Alterations Explained
Hemming (Adjusting Length)
The most common alteration, hemming adjusts dress length. This is typically straightforward for straight or A-line hems but becomes more complex with curved hems, high-low styles, or dresses with significant embellishment at the hemline.
- Simple hem – Straightforward adjustment, typically $15-40
- Curved or asymmetrical hem – More labour-intensive, $30-60
- Lined dresses – Both layers need adjustment, adds to cost
- Decorated hemlines – Beading or lace may need to be removed and reattached
Taking In (Making Smaller)
Taking in a dress makes it narrower at specific points—typically the waist, hips, or bust area. This is generally feasible and often dramatically improves fit.
- Waist adjustment – Common and usually straightforward
- Side seams – Can reduce overall width through the body
- Back adjustment – Taking in the centre back for better fit
- Bust darts – Adding or adjusting darts for better bust fit
There's a limit to how much a dress can be taken in—usually no more than two sizes without completely reconstructing the garment. If a dress needs major reduction, it's often more cost-effective to find a better-fitting starting point.
Letting Out (Making Larger)
Letting out a dress is more limited than taking in, as it depends on available seam allowance—the extra fabric within the seams. Higher-quality dresses typically have more generous seam allowances.
- Check seam allowances first – A tailor can assess how much room exists
- Usually limited to 1-2 cm – Sometimes more in quality garments
- May leave visible marks – Previous seam lines can show on some fabrics
Shoulder Adjustments
Shoulder alterations are among the most complex and expensive, which is why fitting the shoulders correctly when purchasing is crucial. However, some adjustments are possible:
- Narrowing shoulders – Feasible but complex; affects armhole
- Taking up shoulders – Shortens the bodice from the top
- Strap adjustments – Simpler on sleeveless styles
Sleeve Alterations
- Shortening sleeves – Generally straightforward
- Narrowing sleeves – Possible through the inner seam
- Adding or removing sleeves – Major alteration; expensive but transformative
Neckline Changes
Neckline alterations range from simple to complex:
- Lowering a neckline – Often feasible
- Raising a neckline – Requires adding fabric; more complex
- Changing neckline shape – Significant reconstruction; expensive
Working with a Tailor: Best Practices
Finding a Good Tailor
Not all tailors are equal, and finding the right one can make an enormous difference in results:
- Ask for recommendations – Friends, dry cleaners, and bridal shops often know skilled tailors
- Start with a simple alteration – Test with a hem before trusting complex work
- Look at their work – Quality tailors are proud to show their craftsmanship
- Check reviews – Online reviews can reveal consistency and specialties
The Fitting Appointment
Come prepared for your fitting appointment:
- Wear appropriate undergarments – The bra and shapewear you'll wear with the dress
- Bring the shoes – Especially important for hem adjustments
- Know what you want – Have a clear idea of the fit you're seeking
- Be communicative – Speak up if something doesn't feel right during pinning
- Ask questions – Understand what will be done and expected results
A good tailor is a collaborative partner, not someone who simply takes orders. They should offer professional advice about what's possible and advisable, and be willing to explain their approach.
Communication Tips
- Bring reference photos – Show the fit you're hoping to achieve
- Point to specific areas – Be precise about where fit issues exist
- Ask about options – There may be multiple approaches to solving a fit problem
- Discuss timeline – Ensure timing works for your needs
- Get a price estimate – Before work begins, understand the cost
When Alterations Make Sense—And When They Don't
Worth the Investment
- Quality garments – Better construction means better alteration results
- Special occasion dresses – Perfect fit matters most when all eyes are on you
- Wardrobe staples – Pieces you'll wear frequently justify the investment
- Significant discount finds – A reduced designer dress plus alterations may still cost less than full price
Probably Not Worth It
- Fast fashion – Construction often can't support quality alterations
- Trendy pieces – You may not wear them long enough to justify the cost
- Major reconstruction – If extensive work is needed, find a better-fitting starting point
- Poor quality fabric – Some fabrics don't respond well to alteration
DIY Alterations: What You Can Do at Home
Some minor adjustments are achievable at home with basic sewing skills:
Beginner-Friendly
- Hemming with tape – Temporary solution using iron-on hem tape
- Shortening straps – Often just requires moving a button or simple stitching
- Taking in with safety pins – Emergency temporary solution
- Adding belt loops – Simple hand-sewing project
Intermediate Skills Required
- Simple straight hem – Hand-stitched invisible hem
- Side seam adjustment – Taking in through existing seams
- Dart addition – Improves fit but requires precision
If you want to learn dress alterations, practice on inexpensive garments from op shops before attempting alterations on dresses you care about. The skills develop with practice, and mistakes on donated dresses are learning opportunities, not disasters.
Cost Expectations in Australia
Alteration costs vary by location, complexity, and tailor expertise. Here's a general guide:
- Simple hem – $15-40
- Taking in sides – $25-60
- Taking in waist – $30-70
- Shoulder adjustment – $40-100
- Sleeve shortening – $20-50
- Adding/adjusting darts – $30-60
- Neckline adjustment – $40-100+
- Major reconstruction – $100-300+
Note: Prices are significantly higher in Sydney and Melbourne CBDs. Suburban and regional tailors often offer comparable quality at lower prices.
Tailoring is an investment in looking your best. A $50 alteration on a $100 dress that you'll wear dozens of times is excellent value. The goal isn't perfection off the rack—it's finding pieces with the right bones and having them refined to fit your unique body. Once you embrace alterations as part of the shopping process, a world of previously "almost right" dresses becomes available to you.